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Coronado Yorkies

Yorkie Puppy Care and Grooming


Yorkshire Terrier Arkansas, AR

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Care and Grooming


Your yorkie puppy is on a 3x daily feeding schedule of Natural Balance all Life mixed with Royal Canin puppy. We recommend that you stick to dry food only, to protect their teeth. If you notice a significant lack of appetite from the stress of a new environment, you may supplement with a minor amount of wet food mixed in, but please only temporarily. Vanilla yogurt is given as a weekly treat and recommended upon arrival. If you wish to change brands please do so gradually over the course of a week. We suggest a 3 times daily feeding schedule for the first 6 months and then twice daily to aid in housebreaking. NO table scraps EVER! Cheerios are good training treats; many prepared dog treats are high in fat, sodium etc. so read labels.

Yorkies are susceptible to Hypoglycemia because of their small size. Their system can burn up energy very quickly you need to limit the amount of stimulating playtime. This can also happen if the puppy is not eating. Never wake up sleeping puppies!. The primary warning sign of hypoglycemia is a wobbly gait (he can't steadily stand). Hypoglycemia is caused by low blood sugar it can be treated effectively with Nurtidrops, Nutristat or Karo until you get to a vet.

Yorkies dehydrate very quickly usually caused by diarrhea or paristies. If you suspect dehydration  mix 50/50 pedilite and water then get a fecal exam immediately, you need to rid the cause, if you delay seeing your vet it could be deadly.


We recommend Nylabones, kongs, bully sticks and hooves for chew toys. Beware of toys with loose parts or squeakers. Do not allow chewing on old shoes or clothing because they will not understand the difference between the old and the new. When you catch them chewing on something inappropriate, respond with a sharp ”no” and replace the “bad to chew” item with a “good to chew” one. If you choose to play tug of war games with your pup realize that in his eyes you will be on the same level as a litter mate. This can make training difficult because the pup needs to view you as the “alpha” in his pack in order to follow your instructions.


This is a difficult task with yorkies and requires loads of patience and consistency. Keep strictly to a feeding schedule and remember that food treats are food. Puppy has to go to the bathroom IMMEDIATELY upon waking up; 20 minutes after each meal; whenever playing actively and excited-love, praise, reward. It is essential that puppy does not have free run of the house during housebreaking. Crate training method is explained further on a separate page. When you go out please be sure you use a well-fit harness and lead (Walmart has these at much lower prices than pet stores). Never put a collar on a yorkie or tie anything around their neck while unsupervised. Watch out for big dogs and things they might want to nibble that would make them sick. If you have a fenced yard for play, please supervise outside time. Hawks have been known to scoop up yorkies. There is also danger from ticks, fleas and mosquitoes. We recommend Revolution to help protect them against heartworm and fleas.

Grooming is good bonding time. Daily face wash and ear checks, teeth brushing, nail trims weekly. Baths about twice a month, although we do them weekly. Brush outs vary with coat length. We suggest you keep the coat trimmed very short below the tail for cleanliness. It is traditional to trim the top 1/3 of the ear as well. If you choose to use a professional groomer please make sure they do not use automatic dryers. Keep a close eye on teeth. Permanent teeth begin to emerge between 4-6 months and they will sometimes have difficulty losing their baby canine teeth. It may be necessary for your vet to pull these for proper oral hygiene. This is usually done while they are sedated for spay/neuter to avoid unnecessary anesthesia. Isofluorane is the only safe anesthesia for yorkies.

Shampoo & Conditioner:
Do not use shampoo meant for humans. Use high quality shampoo and conditioner formulated specifically for dogs. Plush puppy and swishy coat available online is one of my favorites.  Also Coat handler shampoo and detangler is what I am using now and highly recommend it.

If you bathe every week, (after bathing and conditioner) every other week mix 2 tsp Neutrogena body oil to 1 quart of warm water then lightly rinse.  This is protect the hair from breaking on the ends (grass, carpet or rubbing against any surfaces can cause breakage) If you apply too much the coat will dry very oily and stringy so be careful how much you use.  Or when you condition you can leave a bit in mixed with water and blow dry right into their coat.

If you have any small mats they’re easily removed by separating the hairs with your fingers, if they are a bit tougher add a tad of conditioner to the dry mat then separate.  If your puppy gets itchy skin from his/her environment bathe in Aveeno Oatmeal baby shampoo (don’t use on a regular basis, only use for relief, used for an extended period of time will dry the skin and damage the coat).  Finally do not use Johnson and Johnson baby shampoo it’s very drying and can damage your yorkie's coat.

Necessities [Back to Top]

Metal comb with long teeth
Flea comb–a very fine toothed comb

There are many choices, but we recommend a pin brush with a rubber back. Natural bristle brushes are less likely to damage the coat than synthetics such as nylon.

Basic hair-cut trim scissors

Ear trimmer:
Wahls mustache trimmer, its cordless and rechargeable (available at Walmart)

Nail Trimmers:
Human nail clipper while they are a puppy, as they age use the dog nail clippers, sometimes its necessary to use a nail file, but if maintained it shouldn’t be necessary.  “Stop bleed” is a must if you cut too short, dab that on immediately.

Ear Cleaner:
There are many choices, I use NutraVet ear wash with tea oil and q-tips.

Yorkshire Terrier’s have only a single coat of hair, whereas many breeds have a long outer coat and a shorter undercoat. In this respect, a yorkie coat is similar to a human’s hair. Despite this similarity, you should not use shampoo meant for humans on your Yorkie. Using a human shampoo can result in your yorkie having dry, flaky skin, in a word dandruff.

Don’t brush your yorkie's coat when it is completely dry as it will damage the coat. Keep a spray bottle on hand with a mixture of water and conditioner and lightly spray the coat before you brush or comb.

To prevent odor and preserve the coat, yorkies should be bathed weekly. Be sure to have all of your supplies (including a towel) on hand before starting the bath. NEVER leave your Yorkie unattended on a table top or counter. The puppy WILL attempt to leap to the floor, very possibly resulting in broken bones.

1. Gently bathe puppy in bathtub or sink. Be sure to take the time to work out tangles as they will get worse with each passing day. Wet the tangle with warm water and work it out with your fingers as you bathe the puppy. If you use the comb, be careful not to pull painfully on the puppy’s coat while working out the tangle.

2. Be sure to completely rinse your yorkie’s hair after shampooing and conditioning.

Male Yorkies may dribble urine on themselves in the course of doing their business. You may wish to wash this daily with a damp cloth and warm water, or use an unscented baby wipe.

3. Depending on the length of your yorkie’s coat, you may wish to blow dry the coat after the bath. If you do so, be sure to watch the heat as you can easily burn your puppy with the hot air. It is best if you can have both hands free for this operation, but it may take some time before your puppy is willing to stand still in such an onslaught of noise. There are portable dryers/stands available that will free your hands from holding the dryer. You will want to brush the Yorkie as you dry him or her to prevent tangles.  Make sure you dry the ears thoroughly (hair dryer on low heat) and clean them with an ear cleaner and q-tip.

4. Comb through the coat after the drying and brushing with the metal comb. This will eliminate most of the tangles, knots, and mats that may have been missed by the brushing. Always remove mats or tangles as soon as you discover them as they will get worse with each passing day.

5. The flea comb may be used on a daily basis.

6. Hair trimming: The hair under the pads of the feet, the top 1/3 of the ears, and the hair around the rectum should be trimmed regularly.

Many people choose to keep their yorkies’ coat trimmed in a short “puppy cut” year round. This can be done with a pair of scissors or with a set of electric clippers if you have one available.

To keep the ears of your yorkies standing erect, you should trim the hair on the top 1/3 of the ear, inside and out every week. Otherwise, the weight of the hair may pull your yorkies ears down. Carefully cut away the hair from the top 1/3 of the ear on both the inner and outer surfaces. I use a mustache trimmer bought at Wal-Mart.


While it’s fun having the best dressed Yorkie be aware clothing and accessories can be damaging to their coats and dangerous if left on while unattended. Never leave a collar or necklace on, only use as a dress up accessory.  Clothing and harnesses are best used when going out for walks and outings and removed as soon as they return home.  Both will tend to matt, break and tangle their hair and worse get caught up on something where they can’t get loose.


Yorkies like to travel but we suggest that you stay close to home for the first week to give them time to adjust to their new home. Limit visitors. When you do vacation, know that many hotels are yorkie friendly and you may be able to bring them along. www.petswelcome.com/milkbone/map.html has a listing for pet friendly hotels. If not, please carefully select a boarding facility or dog sitter. Your local kennel club should be able to make recommendations.


Consistency in discipline is key.-do not hit. Let the “sky fall” and then instantly love and hug. TIMING and type of discipline is most important. No discipline unless you catch puppy in the act-1 second after; do nothing. Biting may be done in play or because the puppy is truly scared and feels the need to instinctively defend himself, Regardless of circumstances, biting should not be tolerated: however, you can discipline the biting only if you catch the puppy in the act and you are able to grab the puppy quickly and sharply at the inception or during the act of biting. The puppy should receive one single jolt/noise of sufficient force so that he knows you are not playing. It is imperative that you hug and pet instantaneously after any discipline so that he never has a chance to sulk or relate a negative thought to discipline.


Crate training is an essential part of your puppy’s care. Puppy’s crate is his own space within your environment; do not allow children to crawl into puppy’s crate. This space is his safe haven and protects him from unforeseen dangers that curious pups can get into very quickly. If you are not monitoring his explorations please make sure he is safely in his crate. If pup is left for longer periods of time we recommend an ex -pen with the crate (door open) inside, and a litter area available outside the crate. Any room that can be closed off for safety (baby gates) is also suitable. More on this with Crate do’s and Don’ts.

If you ever have questions regarding behavior, training or care please call.

Puppy 101 [Back to Top]

1. Reinforce your pup's good behaviors with praise and treats (when he pees outside, sits for a toy or treat, chews on his toys, or even just lies quietly on the floor). Don't be afraid to use food as a motivator, when he's gotten into the habit of always doing whatever you want (because you always had food for him), you can phase out the treats and only use praise. Puppies learn much more easily if you use part of his daily food ration as a motivation for good behavior. If you scold or punish your puppy for bad behavior, yet ignore him when he is good, you are reinforcing bad behavior. Instead, withdraw attention from him when he's jumping up or barking, and enthusiastically praise when he's doing what you want, even if he's only sitting and looking at you, or quietly chewing one of his toys. Remember, a lack of your attention is enough punishment for a puppy.

2. Never hit or physically punish your puppy. Make sure your children do no't either. Hitting or hurting your pup signals the end of your relationship with him. If your pup doesn't like or trust you or your kids (and he won't if you hurt him), he won't trust you and won't want to obey. There are much better ways to get your pup to obey.

3. Start Housetraining as soon as possible. Be consistent and patient, and remember that any accidents are your fault, not his.

4. Start Socializing now. Socializing your pup is the most important thing you can do during the first few weeks of his life. Your pup's most impressionable "imprint' period is from birth to 16 weeks of age. Many puppy owners don't realize how easily they can have a well-behaved, calm and happy dog in the future just by daily proactive socialization of their new pup.

5. Practice Handling Exercises daily. Baths, brushing, clipping nails, cleaning ears, examining and brushing teeth should become a regular and pleasant part of your pup's life. Your goal is to have him look forward to being handled by you and the kids (supervise handling exercises with children and pre-teens). Use a gradual technique to get your pup used to having his nails trimmed and teeth brushed. With nails/feet, start by simply touching one toe, or gently holding a paw for 1 second, then release. Gradually introduce the nail clipper; clip one nail (only the very tip), praise & treat. Finish that paw and take a break. Ear checking & cleaning, brushing, and bathing should also be practiced frequently, with treats & praise. You can also gradually get him used to your finger rubbing his outer gums and teeth. Once he's OK with that, incorporate some canine enzymatic toothpaste (not human toothpaste) into daily 2 minute teeth-brushing sessions.

6. Start Bite Inhibition exercises right away, and make sure your children really understand and are involved in these exercises. Ifs natural for all dogs to bite, yet many dog owners don't take the simple steps necessary to teach their pup to have a "soft mouth" and that contact with human skin is inappropriate. The way you deal with your pup's play biting now can really influence the way he uses his mouth later. He may seem cute and harmless right now, but when he's older his bite can cause serious injury, not to mention an expensive lawsuit and even euthanasia.

7. Start Chew Training now. Teaching your pup what’s OK to chew and what’s not is at least as important as housetraining him properly - otherwise, you'll end up leaving him in a crate or the basement all day to stop his destructive behavior. It’s easy - as long as you do it now and don't let him start bad habits. Chewing problems can start long after your pup is housetrained (and out of the crate) when your dog has reached adolescence or even adulthood. Prevent this problem now and you'll be glad you did.

8. Correct bad behavior such as chewing or house soiling only if you catch "in the act' (within 2 seconds of the act). Otherwise, your pup will not understand why he is being corrected. A sudden, loud noise ("OUTSIDE if pup is caught house soiling; "OFF" or "STOP IT" or clapping rapidly if chewing) followed by praise when good behavior begins (you rush pup outside to finish peeing & praise/treat; you give stuffed chew toy and praise/treat). Bringing him to the "scene of the crime" does not improve his understanding; if you discover a mess, chalk the experience up to either not being there in time, or not having prevented the situation.

9. Start some basic obedience training as soon as you get your pup. Find a good positive reinforcement puppy kindergarten class which has the added benefit of socialization. Always get several client references from all potential trainers. Early training will allow you control in a wide variety of problematic situations and better yet, it will offer you a lifetime of clear communication with your dog.

10. Walk your pup around the block every day, and play with him every day. Play is an important and fun daily interaction, even if you only have 10 minutes to spare. Great games are Fetch (train by praise/treat when he returns the ball; stop playing when he won't return or drop the ball), Hide & Seek (call his name from a room in the house and praise/treat when he finds you), and Tug-o-War. And even if you have a fenced yard, take him around the block for a daily on-leash walk, (harnesses only, no collars!) he needs the stimulation!

11. Puppy-Proof Your Home!

House Training [Back to Top]

Housetraining your puppy could save his life.

That’s not a joke. Many dogs are surrendered at shelters mainly because they aren't properly housetrained. (Why? Well, first he ruins your floors. You put him outside, but he barks and digs up the yard. You put him in the basement and realize maybe this dog thing wasn't such a good idea after all.) Don't be fooled your puppy happens to get it right for the first few weeks. Start now, and stick with it until your pup really has no accidents. Housetraining isn't great fun, but it is crucial. And it gives you the dog you always dreamed of the one living in your home, laying peacefully by your side.

Step 1: On the first 2-3 days, take your puppy outside (preferably to the same spot) every hour and wait for him to relieve himself. Be boring and don't move just allow him the length of his 4.0 foot leash and don't walk him. As soon as he goes, praise, praise, praise while you give him a few pieces of his puppy food and pet him, hug him, kiss him, and award him with the "prize" of a walk up the street. After his walk, he gets supervised "free run" of the house for 20 minutes (this is a great time to play and/or train him). Then into the crate for the another 35 minutes.

If you waited for more than 20 minutes and he still did NOT relieve himself, he goes directly into the crate for another 20 minutes or so, then straight outside again (this is not a punishment; simply a way of assuring that he won't let loose in the house.) Repeat as necessary until he goes.

Make sure he goes out just before your bedtime. Then, do the same routine once or twice during the night without the "prize" walk or "running around the house" time. Yes, this will rob you of sleep. Rest assured that it will save you many more hours of sleep in the coming months, and entire days of aggravation in the coming years.

Step 2: For the next week, take him out once every 90 minutes during the day and "as needed" in the middle of the night (he'll let you know). During the day, if he piddles outside, he gets supervised free run/play/train time for 30 minutes max. If he doesn't piddle, back into the crate. If he's had no accidents, add 15 minutes to each segment; in other words, he gradually gets more time in the crate and out of the crate. Accidents are common, however; simply backtrack a day by subtracting 15-30 minutes from each segment until he has mastered that length of time. Your mission at this stage of the game is to never give him; opportunity to fail, so ALWAYS supervise indoor activities. If you can't watch him like a hawk during his "free run" time, tie his leash to your belt loop so that you' be sure to catch him in the act, or better yet so that he learns to let you know he's got to go. Remember: Every time your puppy leaves his crate, immediately take him outside very quickly, before he has time to “go” inside. Don’t give him the opportunity to fail, and he won’t- and soon you won’t have to worry about it at all. Step 3: within about 7-10 days your puppy should understand pretty well what’s expected of him. Don't stop now, though. Continue to gradually add time to his supervised free run and crate time until he's successfully "holding it for 3 hours during free run time, and 4 daytime hours in the crate. If you catch him sniffing around suspiciously and squatting "in the act', firmly say "OUTSIDE OUTSIDE OUTSIDE " take him outside immediately, praise and treat him outside as he finishes up. It is imperative you watch him closely during his "free run" time, so you can catch him "in the act' if he has a bit more to eliminate. If you can't watch him closely, put his leash on him and tie the end of it to your wrist or belt loop. This way you can either catch him "in the act', or he'll hold it better, or he'll start to let you know he's got to go!

Commonly Asked Questions [Back to Top]

Q. I work all day. How can I let my yorkie puppy out every 2 hours for a week?

A. Start on a weekend. That will give you 2 good days to get a head start. Then, seriously consider taking off a personal day or two for housetraining - it's worth it, believe us. Out of the question? Try to get home at least twice during the day, and/or have a friend or Pet sitter drop by a few times. One to two weeks of serious housetraining now will save you a lot of time and money later. Soon you'll have a fully housetrained puppy, and you won't have to worry about him while you're away. (Remember, do not crate your pup if someone can't let him out frequently during the first 7-10 days; use the puppy-proofed kitchen instead, described below, but keep the crate training going when you are home at night)

Q. I'm away from home 9 hours a day, I can't take time off or afford a pet sitter, and none of my friends or family can help me out. Now what? A. Very frankly, you are asking for trouble in the form of an unhappy puppy with serious behavioral problems. You should seriously consider whether a puppy can really fit into your lifestyle and financial means. If, however this is a very short-term and temporary situation, and you can vigorously exercise and socialize your pup DAILY during your off-hours, here is your answer: Although difficult on you and your puppy, your mission is not impossible. Bear in mind that housetraining in this way will take longer, and your puppy will probably have more accidents. NEVER LEAVE A PUPPY IN A CRATE FOR THE ENTIRE DAY- he will soil it. Instead, give him a puppy-proofed area like the linoleum-floor kitchen. Make sure there's nothing he can reach or get into. Line the floor with newspaper for easy cleanup, leave the crate door open and line the crate with, blanket that smells like you, leave the radio on with calm music or a talk show, and give him plenty of durable chew-toys to occupy his time. During your off hours and weekends, do crate train him as directed here. It will take longer, but he still needs to learn how to hold his bladder and bowel.

Q. Why is it important to housetrain my yorkie puppy so quickly?

A. Every time your puppy soils inside your house, he learns "this floor is just as good a place to go as any," and the chances of him going there again will increase. The fewer accidents he has now, the quicker you'll have him housetrained.

Q. What should I do If my yorkie puppy has an "accident?

A. Close supervision is key during his free run time, so watch for his "signs" the he has to go (sniffing, panting, circling, staring at you or the door, whining). If you don't catch him "in the act", just clean it up with a non-ammonia cleanser and chalk it up to not being there in time. Your pup won't know what he did wrong! Punishing him is not only a waste of time but confusing to him and completely ineffective (See Step 3 above.) Punishing a pup for an accident also teaches him to sneak off from you when he has to go he might even become too afraid of you to eliminate in front of you, even when you take him outside!

If you do happen to catch him "in the act", in a firm voice "OUTSIDE OUTSIDE OUTSIDE'" and take him outside immediately, praise and treat him outside as he finishes up. Remember: Punishing him is much less effective than simply showing him where you want him to go and properly teaching him how to "hold if'.

Q. What If my yorkie puppy always soils the crate?

A. Are you sure he wasn't in there for more than an hour or two? Do everything as instructed above, but instead of putting him in the crate, keep him on his leash which is tied to your belt loop (as in Step 3 above). When you have to leave the house, put him in your puppy proofed kitchen, expect a puddle or a pile when you return home, and DON'T punish him for it!


DO purchase a crate which is only large enough for your pup to stand up, turn around and lie down in.

DO introduce your puppy to his crate gradually, with praise, toys and treats galore.

DON'T slam the crate door and leave the room when first introducing him to his crate.

DO remove the water bottle at about 8pm each evening. This will help him "get through the night"

DO put in a blanket or other bedding.

DON'T put your puppy into his crate in anger, or as a punishment.

DO give him a good chew-toy or two when he's in his crate.

DO keep in mind: .A new puppy needs to relieve himself several times during the day. In spite of his instinct not to soil his cozy crate, he will be forced by nature do so if you leave him in it for too long, until he gradually learns how to "hold it"

DO leave the crate door open when he's out; he may just go in there on his own

DO praise your puppy when he enters his crate.

DO "ignore" your puppy when he leaves his crate.

DO bring him outside immediately when he leaves his crate.

DON'T leave him in his crate for longer than he can "hold if' (1 hour max. for very young pups, 3 hours for 3-4 months old, 4-5 hours for older pups and dog!

DON'T give him attention for crying when he goes into his crate. Rather, give him a chew toy before he starts crying, and never open the crate door until he has been quiet for a few seconds.

DON'T leave housetraining or crate training duties to children. Rather, involve them in the process by letting them help you.

DON'T leave your puppy (or adult dog) in a crate all day, if he can hold it in the crate, he can hold it in the rest of the house.

DO praise and treat your pup every time he urinates or defecates outside.

DON'T use ammonia or any cleanser with ammonia in its ingredients to clean a pet accident (ammonia smells like urine to your pup and he'll be likely to go there again soon )


Daily socialization to a wide variety of human infants, toddlers, preteens, adolescents, adults, as well as other dogs will ensure the development of a calm, confident dog unlikely to jump, bark, bite, spook or become aggressive around other dogs or people. How should you properly socialize your puppy? Don't force him into a situation he's shy about; let him meet people, children, and other dogs at his own pace. His most impressionable imprint' period is from 3 weeks to 16 weeks of age; however, the following socialization exercises must be continued throughout his adolescent months and adult years as well

Human Socialization

After the first week in his new home, invite friends and relatives, particularly young children, to your house often. Make sure they are not sick and don’t feel strange for asking them to wash their hands before petting. Keep a bowl of cheerios handy so visitors can treat him when they arrive. Go to malls, schools, shopping centers, nursing homes, and (after vaccinations) take walks with him in different neighborhoods. Keep a pocketful treats to give to adults and children to give to your pup, this will solidify a positive association with strangers in his mind. A pup well socialized to 6 year olds is not necessarily well socialized to 2-year olds; make an effort to have him meet a very wide variety of children and adults.

NOTE: Never leave a baby, toddler or young child under the age of 10 alone with a yorkie puppy or Yorkshire Terrier adult of any age. Your pup needs to meet many babies and toddlers, so an adult should treat/praise the pup when holding or standing next to a small child. Children often tend to get rough and hurt pups (poking eyes, pulling tails, jumping on, slapping, kicking, stepping on, holding by the neck). Allowing this is asking for trouble later, so carefully supervise all of your pup's interactions with your children and their friends.

Canine Socialization

Once your yorkie puppy has had his vaccines, your pup can and should play with other vaccinated puppies and friendly adult dogs as frequently as possible. Bring him to the local park (always on leash) to play with other friendly dogs. Sign up for a puppy kindergarten class. Bring him to your local pet store. Dog daycare is also an excellent place for your puppy to get socialized while you're at work. When he's playing with pups his own age, he may be shyer or more aggressive than the others, this is normal. Try not to pick up a shy pup or scold a boisterous one; he needs to learn his canine social skills from the other pups and believe us, they'll let him know what’s OK and what’s not. You do need to exercise good judgment about what may constitute a dangerous situation and remove your dog calmly without communicating fear or excitement.

Important: Keep your hellos and goodbye's very low-key and casual. Never make a fuss when you come home or leave; this will only increase his anxiety while you're gone. Before you leave the house for a while, let him outside to pee then completely ignore him for the last few minutes before you leave. A low-key, very casual “OK, watch the house, Rover” is enough of a goodbye. When you get home, take him outside and do not greet him until he has peed. After he pees, you can give a quick hug hello and start to go casually about your business (reading mail, etc.) This will help greatly reduce the chance of developing separation anxiety.

Mouth Training [Back to Top]

Please don't skip this very important daily puppy training exercise. If you don't take the opportunity to teach your puppy "bite inhibition" now, you are asking for trouble at least, and at worst you are risking injury and/or a lawsuit and/or euthanasia for this dog. No one expects their cute little pup to grow up into a dog who bites.

Bite Inhibition (a "soft mouth") is one of the most important lessons your yorkie pup can learn while his sharp baby teeth are still in. When you watch a litter of puppies playing, you will see that they spend much of their time mouthing and biting each other. Because puppies have very sharp teeth and a weak jaw, the harder bites or mouthing will hurt their littermates so they yelp and refuse to play with him for a time. Soon the pup learns that play time ends when he bites too hard. You and your family should mimic this puppy play behavior.

Step 1: Practice several times daily for 3-4 weeks. Allow your pup to mouth/play bite.

When he exerts slightly more pressure than usual, say "Ouch'" just loud enough that he stops in surprise, and immediately stop playing for a few seconds. Now allow him to mouth again and repeat the "Ouch'" and stop playing. Repeat these steps several times until he ONLY mouths softly. If your pup is not responding to the "Ouch", simply stop it and just stop playing and/or get up and move away for a minute, then start again. Your pup will quickly learn that fun ends when he mouths too hard.

Step 2: (Only after Step 1 has been practiced for at least 2, and preferably 4 weeks) Now, any and every time his teeth make contact with human skin, say "OUCH!" and immediately stop playing. Get up and leave, and/or ignore the pup for a minute or two. Your pup should begin to believe that humans are very sensitive and cannot stand the pain of any tooth contact to their skin. The point of these bite inhibition exercises is to first teach your pup to have a "soft mouth", and then to teach him that the instant his teeth touch human skin, play time is over. Remember, if your pup doesn't respond to the "Ouch" or seems to get more excited, just skip it and simply stop interacting in any way for a few minutes.

Chew Training

One of the most important tasks you have as a new yorkie puppy owner is to spend as much time as possible encouraging your pup to chew and play with the correct chew toys. It is necessary for puppies to chew as long as it’s on something appropriate. If your puppy chews on your coffee table, it's because:

1) puppies like to chew on things

2) you didn't teach him what was appropriate to chew

3) he doesn’t have anything else to do

4) you gave him access to the coffee table

You cannot scold him for chewing the coffee table unless you catch him "in the act'. A quick shout is usually enough: say "Puppy, OFF! Find your chew toy!" and then go and get a chew toy for him and praise him when he shows even the slightest interest in it. If you punish your pup after the fact, even one minute after, he won't learn not to chew that thing, all he will learn is ''when my owner comes home, I get punished". This will only increase his anxiety during the day, and he may start to chew even more. Teach your dog what’s right to chew and what’s wrong by providing a variety of appropriate chew toys. Keep half of them away out of sight until he's bored with the ones he has. Then take up the old toys (for use later) and give him the new toys, one at a time enthusiastically.

10 good chew toys cost a lot less than a new coffee table. Appropriate chew toys are:
Kong or similar hard rubber toy with a hollow center. Smear a thin layer of honey or peanut butter inside, then stuff these with kibble, treats, other goodies. (Don't worry about your pup getting too fat, just take the food your use for chew toys out of his daily ration.) Natural bones with hollowed-out marrow area (stuff with kibble, peanut butter, etc.). Twisted ropes; Soak in chicken or beef broth, then dry. Cow hooves and bully sticks are big favorites too. NOTE: Limit edible chews (bully sticks, hooves, pig's ears) to 1-2 per week maximum, and supervise when he's chewing these take the chew away immediately if he tries to swallow a piece. Don't give him an old shoe or rags they teach him that shoes and clothes are OK to chew. Praise, praise, praise each and every time your pup chews something right. Never take this action for granted. You can also make each toy particularly attractive by stuffing it with kibble, rubbing some kind of meat on it, or waggling it temptingly in front of his nose. When your pup shows any interest in the toy praise him. Do consider spraying your baseboards, furniture (chair legs, table legs, etc.) with a bitter-tasting aversive like Bitter Apple or hot sauce (if your furniture is dark wood), the first time your pup goes to chew any of these items will surely be his last! Make sure your home is truly Puppy Proofed, clear all tables and counters of ALL items your pup might want to chew, for at least 2-3 months and preferably until he's 7-8 months old. If he grows up believing "There's never anything fun to steal or chew up there", he'll stop looking (and vice versa If he grows up believing "There's always something fun to steal or chew up there", you can bet he'll keep searching the counters and table tops for fun chewables.) What might your pup want to chew?-Remote controls, mail, any paperwork, any food or anything that had contact with food, sewing supplies, yarn, cans, candles, books, plants, etc. - basically, anything at all. Occasionally practice "entrapment': Bring your pup to something you do not want him to chew, and if he sniffs or mouths it, correct him with a quick "OFF!". Follow immediately by giving him a good chew toy and praise when he takes it. Until he truly understands chewing rules, never leave him alone with access to inappropriate chewables. A Buster Cube or Roll-a-Treat is also a great toy to occupy his mind while you're away or busy.  If your puppy chews on coveted furniture or even worse walls use clear under arm deodorant as a deterrent, they hate the taste and should never visit that area again.

Puppy-Proof Your Home [Back to Top]

Curious new puppies can be injured or harmed because their owners are not aware of their habits or how curious they are. Try to imagine your home through the eyes of your puppy, you may notice many seemingly harmless household items that can cause unfortunate problems.

Until your yorkie puppy is 8-10 months old, don't leave food, candy, dirty dinner plates, utensils or glasses on your coffee table, countertops or other table surfaces. If your pup grows up believing that there's never anything interesting to eat or lick on those tables, he won't develop the habit of jumping up on them, counter-surfing or searching inappropriate places for goodies

Keep papers, magazines, books, knickknacks, and everything else cleared off your coffee table, counters and other tables while your pup is being properly Chew Trained. If your pup grows up believing that there's never anything interesting to chew on those tables, he won't develop a habit of searching there for fun.

Keep bathroom doors closed to prevent forays into garbage or fun with toilet paper.

Always keep the toilet lid down if you use toilet bowl cleaners. They are often strongly alkaline and tempting for a puppy to drink.

Keep medication bottles out of your pup's way. Childproof containers won’t keep your puppy out.

Make sure kitchen garbage is securely out of puppy access, locked under the sink or behind a shut closet door. Dispose of chicken or turkey bones in a puppy-proof manner. Brittle bones can be life-threatening

Secure electrical cords to baseboards, or make them inaccessible. Apply a taste deterrent to these cords (such as hot sauce, deodorant or bitter apple spray available at your local pet supply store) If your puppy chews on them, he can suffer electric shock bums and may even die.

Don't leave cigarette butts in ash trays where your puppy can get to them. If eaten, cigarette butts can lead to nicotine poisoning.

Never burn candles where they're accessible to your pup. The flame can attract him.

Keep Christmas and other decorations out of your pup's reach. Crushed glass ornaments can cause nasty cuts. Tinsel is a choking hazard.

Beware of decks and jumping. Keep cellar doors and upper story windows closed.

Don't leave needles or pins out where the puppy can get to them; pups often swallow them!

Be certain anti-freeze is out of reach and ANY drippings are cleaned up completely. All dogs are
attracted to its scent. Anti-freeze is HIGHLY TOXIC.

Use pesticides and rodent poisons with great caution. Hanging strips, fly paper and other exposed toxins must be kept out of reach.

Learn to do the “yorkie shuffle” when walking. Many yorkies get mistakenly stepped on by their owners, sometimes with very serious results.

Always monitor your yorkie puppy outside.

Keep your yorkie puppy away from toxic foods and plants.

Foods to avoid [Back to Top]

Items to avoid

Reasons to avoid

Alcoholic beverages

Can cause intoxication, coma, and death.

Baby food

Can contain onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs. (Please see onion below.) Can also result in nutritional deficiencies, if fed in large amounts.

Bones from fish, poultry, or other meat sources

Can cause obstruction or laceration of the digestive system.

Cat food

Generally too high in protein and fats.

Chocolate, coffee, tea, and other caffeine

Contain caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline, which can be toxic and affect the heart and nervous systems.

Citrus oil extracts

Can cause vomiting.

Fat trimmings

Can cause pancreatitis.

Grapes and raisins

Contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys.


Unknown compound causes panting, increased heart rate, elevated temperature, seizures, and death.

Human vitamin supplements containing iron

Can damage the lining of the digestive system and be toxic to the other organs including the liver and kidneys.

Large amounts of liver

Can cause Vitamin A toxicity, which affects muscles and bones.

Macadamia nuts

Contain an unknown toxin, which can affect the digestive and nervous systems and muscle.


Can depress the nervous system, cause vomiting, and changes in the heart rate.

Milk and other dairy products

Some adult dogs and cats do not have sufficient amounts of the enzyme lactase, which breaks down the lactose in milk. This can result in diarrhea. Lactose-free milk products are available for pets.

Moldy or spoiled food, garbage

Can contain multiple toxins causing vomiting and diarrhea and can also affect other organs.


Can contain toxins, which may affect multiple systems in the body, cause shock, and result in death.

Onions and garlic (raw, cooked, or powder)

Contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia.


Seeds can cause intestinal obstruction and enteritis.

Pits from peaches and plums

Can cause obstruction of the digestive tract.

Potato stem, rhubarb, tomato leaves/stems

Contain oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.

Raw eggs

Contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella.

Raw fish

Can result in a thiamine (a B vitamin) deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death. More common if raw fish is fed regularly.


If eaten in large quantities may lead to electrolyte imbalances.


Can become trapped in the digestive system; called a "string foreign body."

Sugary foods

Can lead to obesity, dental problems, and possibly diabetes mellitus.

Table scraps (in large amounts)

Table scraps are not nutritionally balanced. They should never be more than 10% of the diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat; bones should not be fed.


Contains nicotine, which affects the digestive and nervous systems. Can result in rapid heart beat, collapse, coma, and death.

Yeast dough

Can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.

  Common poisonous plants [Back to Top]

Puppies, tend to explore their world by putting everything in their mouth. This may help them learn about their environment, but it can also be harmful. Many plants are dangerous. Some may cause vomiting or diarrhea while others may cause organ failure and death. Pet owners should seriously take the responsibility of keeping pets away from dangerous plants.

Below, we have provided a list of some of the more common poisonous plants. This is not an all-inclusive list. The same plant may also have different common names depending on the area of the country in which one resides. Every pet owner should know what plants are in and around his/her house.

If you think your pet has chewed on or eaten one of these plants, please contact your veterinarian, animal emergency clinic, or the poison control center for advice.

Aloe Vera
Apple (seeds)
Apricot (pit)
Asparagus Fern
Autumn Crocus

Bird of Paradise
Black Locust
Black Walnut
Bleeding Heart
Boston Ivy


German Ivy

Hurricane Plant



Oak Tree (buds and acorns)

Peace Lily
Peach (wilting leaves and pits)
Pencil Tree
Poison Ivy
Poison Hemlock
Poison Oak
Poison Sumac
Potato (all green parts)
Precatory Bean


California Poppy

Calla Lily
Castor Bean
Cherry (seeds, wilting leaves, and pit)
Chinese Evergreen
Christmas Rose
Corn Plant
Crown of Thorns
Crown Vetch


Jack in the Pulpit
Japanese Yew
Jerusalem Cherry
Jimson Weed


Lamb's quarter
Lily of the Valley


Ribbon Cactus
Rubber Tree

Sago Palm
Shamrock Plant
Snake Plant
Snow on the Mountain
Star of Bethlehem
Stinging Nettle
Swiss Cheese Plant


Devil's Ivy
Donkey Tail
Dumb Cane
Dutchman's Breeches

Easter Lily
Elephant Ears
English Ivy

Fiddle-leaf Fig
Florida Beauty
Four O'Clock
Fruit Salad Plant


Marigold (Marsh Marigold)
Mexican Breadfruit
Morning Glory
Mother-in-Law plant
Mother-in-Law's Tongue
Mountain Laurel



Taro Vine
Tomato Plant (entire plant except ripe fruit)

Umbrella Tree

Water Hemlock
Weeping Fig



Don’t forget there are many bark dust that are toxic, hemlock and chocolate bark dust should not be in any part of the yard where the puppy can freely access.

 [Back to Top]

If you dog is not feeling well try Pet MD Checker.

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