Your yorkie puppy is on a 3x daily feeding schedule of Natural Balance all
Life mixed with Royal Canin puppy. We recommend that you stick to dry food
only, to protect their teeth. If you notice a significant lack
of appetite from the stress of a new environment, you may
supplement with a minor amount of wet food mixed in, but please
only temporarily. Vanilla yogurt is given as a weekly treat and
recommended upon arrival. If you wish to change brands please do
so gradually over the course of a week. We suggest a 3 times
daily feeding schedule for the first 6 months and then twice
daily to aid in housebreaking. NO table scraps EVER! Cheerios
are good training treats; many prepared dog treats are high in
fat, sodium etc. so read labels.
Yorkies are susceptible to
Hypoglycemia because of their small size. Their system can burn
up energy very quickly you need to limit the amount of
stimulating playtime. This can also happen if the puppy is not
eating. Never wake up sleeping puppies!. The
primary warning sign of
hypoglycemia is a wobbly gait (he can't
steadily stand). Hypoglycemia is caused by low blood sugar it
can be treated effectively with
Nurtidrops, Nutristat or Karo until you get
to a vet.
Yorkies dehydrate very quickly usually caused by diarrhea or
paristies. If you suspect
50/50 pedilite and water then get a fecal exam immediately,
you need to rid the cause, if you delay seeing your vet it could
Nylabones, kongs, bully sticks and hooves for chew toys. Beware
of toys with loose parts or squeakers. Do not allow chewing on
old shoes or clothing because they will not understand the
difference between the old and the new. When you catch them
chewing on something inappropriate, respond with a sharp ”no”
and replace the “bad to chew” item with a “good to chew” one. If
you choose to play tug of war games with your pup realize that
in his eyes you will be on the same level as a litter mate. This
can make training difficult because the pup needs to view you as
the “alpha” in his pack in order to follow your instructions.
This is a
difficult task with yorkies and requires loads of patience and
consistency. Keep strictly to a feeding schedule and remember
that food treats are food. Puppy has to go to the bathroom
IMMEDIATELY upon waking up; 20 minutes after each meal; whenever
playing actively and excited-love, praise, reward. It is
essential that puppy does not have free run of the house during
housebreaking. Crate training method is explained further on a
separate page. When you go out please be sure you use a well-fit
harness and lead (Walmart has these at much lower prices than
pet stores). Never put a collar on a yorkie or tie anything
around their neck while unsupervised. Watch out for big dogs and
things they might want to nibble that would make them sick. If
you have a fenced yard for play, please supervise outside time.
Hawks have been known to scoop up yorkies. There is also danger
from ticks, fleas and mosquitoes. We recommend Revolution to
help protect them against heartworm and fleas.
good bonding time. Daily face wash and ear checks, teeth
brushing, nail trims weekly. Baths about twice a month, although
we do them weekly. Brush outs vary with coat length. We suggest
you keep the coat trimmed very short below the tail for
cleanliness. It is traditional to trim the top 1/3 of the ear as
well. If you choose to use a professional groomer please make
sure they do not use automatic dryers. Keep a close eye on
teeth. Permanent teeth begin to emerge between 4-6 months and
they will sometimes have difficulty losing their baby canine
teeth. It may be necessary for your vet to pull these for proper
oral hygiene. This is usually done while they are sedated for
spay/neuter to avoid unnecessary anesthesia. Isofluorane is the
only safe anesthesia for yorkies.
Do not use shampoo meant
for humans. Use high quality shampoo and
conditioner formulated specifically for dogs. Plush puppy and
swishy coat available online is one of my favorites. Also Coat handler shampoo and detangler is what I
am using now and highly recommend it.
If you bathe
every week, (after bathing and conditioner) every other week mix
2 tsp Neutrogena body oil to 1 quart of warm water then lightly
rinse. This is protect the hair from breaking on the ends
(grass, carpet or rubbing against any surfaces can cause
breakage) If you apply too much the coat will dry very oily and
stringy so be careful how much you use. Or when you condition
you can leave a bit in mixed with water and blow dry right into
If you have
any small mats they’re easily removed by separating the hairs
with your fingers, if they are a bit tougher add a tad of
conditioner to the dry mat then separate. If your puppy gets
itchy skin from his/her environment bathe in Aveeno Oatmeal baby
shampoo (don’t use on a regular basis, only use for relief, used
for an extended period of time will dry the skin and damage the
Finally do not use Johnson and Johnson baby shampoo it’s very
drying and can damage your yorkie's coat.
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Metal comb with long teeth
Flea comb–a very fine toothed comb
There are many choices, but we recommend a pin brush with a
rubber back. Natural bristle brushes are less likely to damage
the coat than synthetics such as nylon.
Basic hair-cut trim scissors
Wahls mustache trimmer, its cordless and rechargeable
(available at Walmart)
Human nail clipper while they are a puppy, as they age use the
dog nail clippers, sometimes its necessary to use a nail file,
but if maintained it shouldn’t be necessary. “Stop bleed” is a
must if you cut too short, dab that on immediately.
There are many choices, I use NutraVet ear wash with tea oil and
Yorkshire Terrier’s have only a single coat of hair, whereas
many breeds have a long outer coat and a shorter undercoat. In
this respect, a yorkie coat is similar to a human’s hair.
Despite this similarity, you should not use shampoo meant for
humans on your Yorkie. Using a human shampoo can result in your
yorkie having dry, flaky skin, in a word dandruff.
your yorkie's coat when it is completely dry as it will damage
the coat. Keep a spray bottle on hand with a mixture of water
and conditioner and lightly spray the coat before you brush or
odor and preserve the coat, yorkies should be bathed weekly. Be
sure to have all of your supplies (including a towel) on hand
before starting the bath. NEVER leave your Yorkie unattended on
a table top or counter. The puppy WILL attempt to leap to the
floor, very possibly resulting in broken bones.
bathe puppy in bathtub or sink. Be sure to take the time to work
out tangles as they will get worse with each passing day. Wet
the tangle with warm water and work it out with your fingers as
you bathe the puppy. If you use the comb, be careful not to pull
painfully on the puppy’s coat while working out the tangle.
2. Be sure
to completely rinse your yorkie’s hair after shampooing and
may dribble urine on themselves in the course of doing their
business. You may wish to wash this daily with a damp cloth and
warm water, or use an unscented baby wipe.
on the length of your yorkie’s coat, you may wish to blow dry
the coat after the bath. If you do so, be sure to watch the heat
as you can easily burn your puppy with the hot air. It is best
if you can have both hands free for this operation, but it may
take some time before your puppy is willing to stand still in
such an onslaught of noise. There are portable dryers/stands
available that will free your hands from holding the dryer. You
will want to brush the Yorkie as you dry him or her to prevent
tangles. Make sure you dry the ears thoroughly (hair dryer on
low heat) and clean them with an ear cleaner and q-tip.
through the coat after the drying and brushing with the metal
comb. This will eliminate most of the tangles, knots, and mats
that may have been missed by the brushing. Always remove mats or
tangles as soon as you discover them as they will get worse with
each passing day.
5. The flea
comb may be used on a daily basis.
6. Hair trimming: The hair under the pads of the feet, the top
1/3 of the ears, and the hair around the rectum should be
choose to keep their yorkies’ coat trimmed in a short “puppy
cut” year round. This can be done with a pair of scissors or
with a set of electric clippers if you have one available.
To keep the
ears of your yorkies standing erect, you should trim the hair on
the top 1/3 of the ear, inside and out every week. Otherwise, the weight of the
hair may pull your yorkies ears down. Carefully cut away the
hair from the top 1/3 of the ear on both the inner and outer
surfaces. I use a mustache trimmer bought at Wal-Mart.
fun having the best dressed Yorkie be aware clothing and
accessories can be damaging to their coats and dangerous if left
on while unattended. Never leave a collar or necklace on,
only use as a dress up accessory. Clothing and harnesses are
best used when going out for walks and outings and removed as
soon as they return home. Both will tend to matt, break and
tangle their hair and worse get caught up on something where
they can’t get loose.
Yorkies like to
travel but we suggest that you stay close to home for the first
week to give them time to adjust to their new home. Limit
visitors. When you do vacation, know that many hotels are yorkie
friendly and you may be able to bring them along.
www.petswelcome.com/milkbone/map.html has a listing for pet
friendly hotels. If not, please carefully select a boarding
facility or dog sitter. Your local kennel club should be able to
discipline is key.-do not hit. Let the “sky fall” and then
instantly love and hug. TIMING and type of discipline is most
important. No discipline unless you catch puppy in the act-1
second after; do nothing. Biting may be done in play or because
the puppy is truly scared and feels the need to instinctively
defend himself, Regardless of circumstances, biting should not
be tolerated: however, you can discipline the biting only if you
catch the puppy in the act and you are able to grab the puppy
quickly and sharply at the inception or during the act of
biting. The puppy should receive one single jolt/noise of
sufficient force so that he knows you are not playing. It is
imperative that you hug and pet instantaneously after any
discipline so that he never has a chance to sulk or relate a
negative thought to discipline.
is an essential part of your puppy’s care. Puppy’s crate is his
own space within your environment; do not allow children to
crawl into puppy’s crate. This space is his safe haven and
protects him from unforeseen dangers that curious pups can get
into very quickly. If you are not monitoring his explorations
please make sure he is safely in his crate. If pup is left for
longer periods of time we recommend an ex -pen with the crate
(door open) inside, and a litter area available outside the
crate. Any room that can be closed off for safety (baby gates)
is also suitable. More on this with Crate do’s and Don’ts.
If you ever
have questions regarding behavior, training or care please call.
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your pup's good behaviors with praise and treats (when he pees
outside, sits for a toy or treat, chews on his toys, or even
just lies quietly on the floor). Don't be afraid to use food as
a motivator, when he's gotten into the habit of always doing
whatever you want (because you always had food for him), you can
phase out the treats and only use praise. Puppies learn much
more easily if you use part of his daily food ration as a
motivation for good behavior. If you scold or punish your puppy
for bad behavior, yet ignore him when he is good, you are
reinforcing bad behavior. Instead, withdraw attention from him
when he's jumping up or barking, and enthusiastically praise
when he's doing what you want, even if he's only sitting and
looking at you, or quietly chewing one of his toys. Remember, a
lack of your attention is enough punishment for a puppy.
2. Never hit or
physically punish your puppy. Make sure your children do no't
either. Hitting or hurting your pup signals the end of your
relationship with him. If your pup doesn't like or trust you or
your kids (and he won't if you hurt him), he won't trust you and
won't want to obey. There are much better ways to get your
pup to obey.
Housetraining as soon as possible. Be consistent and patient,
and remember that any accidents are your fault, not his.
Socializing now. Socializing your pup is the most important
thing you can do during the first few weeks of his life. Your
pup's most impressionable "imprint' period is from birth to 16
weeks of age. Many puppy owners don't realize how easily they
can have a well-behaved, calm and happy dog in the future just
by daily proactive socialization of their new pup.
Handling Exercises daily. Baths, brushing, clipping nails,
cleaning ears, examining and brushing teeth should become a
regular and pleasant part of your pup's life. Your goal is to
have him look forward to being handled by you and the kids
(supervise handling exercises with children and pre-teens). Use
a gradual technique to get your pup used to having his nails
trimmed and teeth brushed. With nails/feet, start by simply
touching one toe, or gently holding a paw for 1 second, then
release. Gradually introduce the nail clipper; clip one nail
(only the very tip), praise & treat. Finish that paw and take a
break. Ear checking & cleaning, brushing, and bathing should
also be practiced frequently, with treats & praise. You can also
gradually get him used to your finger rubbing his outer gums and
teeth. Once he's OK with that, incorporate some canine enzymatic
toothpaste (not human toothpaste) into daily 2 minute
6. Start Bite
Inhibition exercises right away, and make sure your children
really understand and are involved in these exercises. Ifs
natural for all dogs to bite, yet many dog owners don't take the
simple steps necessary to teach their pup to have a "soft mouth"
and that contact with human skin is inappropriate. The way you
deal with your pup's play biting now can really influence the way
he uses his mouth later. He may seem cute and harmless right
now, but when he's older his bite can cause serious injury, not
to mention an expensive lawsuit and even euthanasia.
7. Start Chew
Training now. Teaching your pup what’s OK to chew and what’s not
is at least as important as housetraining him properly -
otherwise, you'll end up leaving him in a crate or the basement
all day to stop his destructive behavior. It’s easy - as long as
you do it now and don't let him start bad habits. Chewing
problems can start long after your pup is housetrained (and out
of the crate) when your dog has reached adolescence or even
adulthood. Prevent this problem now and you'll be glad you did.
8. Correct bad
behavior such as chewing or house soiling only if you catch "in
the act' (within 2 seconds of the act). Otherwise, your pup will
not understand why he is being corrected. A sudden, loud noise
("OUTSIDE if pup is caught house soiling; "OFF" or "STOP IT" or
clapping rapidly if chewing) followed by praise when good
behavior begins (you rush pup outside to finish peeing &
praise/treat; you give stuffed chew toy and praise/treat).
Bringing him to the "scene of the crime" does not improve his
understanding; if you discover a mess, chalk the experience up
to either not being there in time, or not having prevented the
9. Start some
basic obedience training as soon as you get your pup. Find a
good positive reinforcement puppy kindergarten class which has
the added benefit of socialization. Always get several client
references from all potential trainers. Early training will
allow you control in a wide variety of problematic situations
and better yet, it will offer you a lifetime of clear
communication with your dog.
10. Walk your
pup around the block every day, and play with him every day.
Play is an important and fun daily interaction, even if you only
have 10 minutes to spare. Great games are Fetch (train by
praise/treat when he returns the ball; stop playing when he
won't return or drop the ball), Hide & Seek (call his name from
a room in the house and praise/treat when he finds you), and
Tug-o-War. And even if you have a fenced yard, take him around
the block for a daily on-leash walk, (harnesses only, no
collars!) he needs the stimulation!
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your puppy could save his life.
That’s not a
joke. Many dogs are surrendered at shelters mainly because they
aren't properly housetrained. (Why? Well, first he ruins your
floors. You put him outside, but he barks and digs up the yard.
You put him in the basement and realize maybe this dog thing
wasn't such a good idea after all.) Don't be fooled your puppy
happens to get it right for the first few weeks. Start now, and
stick with it until your pup really has no accidents.
Housetraining isn't great fun, but it is crucial. And it gives
you the dog you always dreamed of the one living in your home,
laying peacefully by your side.
On the first 2-3 days, take your puppy outside (preferably to
the same spot) every hour and wait for him to relieve himself.
Be boring and don't move just allow him the length of his 4.0
foot leash and don't walk him. As soon as he goes, praise,
praise, praise while you give him a few pieces of his puppy food
and pet him, hug him, kiss him, and award him with the "prize"
of a walk up the street. After his walk, he gets supervised
"free run" of the house for 20 minutes (this is a great time to
play and/or train him). Then into the crate for the another 35
If you waited
for more than 20 minutes and he still did NOT relieve himself,
he goes directly into the crate for another 20 minutes or so,
then straight outside again (this is not a punishment; simply a
way of assuring that he won't let loose in the house.) Repeat as
necessary until he goes.
Make sure he
goes out just before your bedtime. Then, do the same routine
once or twice during the night without the "prize" walk or
"running around the house" time. Yes, this will rob you of
sleep. Rest assured that it will save you many more hours of
sleep in the coming months, and entire days of aggravation in
the coming years.
For the next week, take him out once every 90 minutes during the
day and "as needed" in the middle of the night (he'll let you
know). During the day, if he piddles outside, he gets supervised
free run/play/train time for 30 minutes max. If he doesn't
piddle, back into the crate. If he's had no accidents, add 15
minutes to each segment; in other words, he gradually gets more
time in the crate and out of the crate. Accidents are common,
however; simply backtrack a day by subtracting 15-30
minutes from each segment until he has mastered that length of
time. Your mission at this stage of the game is to never give
him; opportunity to fail, so ALWAYS supervise indoor activities.
If you can't watch him like a hawk during his "free run" time,
tie his leash to your belt loop so that you' be sure to catch
him in the act, or better yet so that he learns to let you know
he's got to go. Remember: Every time your puppy leaves his
crate, immediately take him outside very quickly, before he has
time to “go” inside. Don’t give him the opportunity to fail, and
he won’t- and soon you won’t have to worry about it at all. Step
3: within about 7-10 days your puppy should understand pretty
well what’s expected of him. Don't stop now, though. Continue to
gradually add time to his supervised free run and crate time
until he's successfully "holding it for 3 hours during free run
time, and 4 daytime hours in the crate. If you catch him
sniffing around suspiciously and squatting "in the act', firmly
say "OUTSIDE OUTSIDE OUTSIDE " take him outside immediately,
praise and treat him outside as he finishes up. It is imperative
you watch him closely during his "free run" time, so you can
catch him "in the act' if he has a bit more to eliminate. If you
can't watch him closely, put his leash on him and tie the end of
it to your wrist or belt loop. This way you can either catch him
"in the act', or he'll hold it better, or he'll start to let you
know he's got to go!
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Q. I work all
day. How can I let my yorkie puppy out every 2 hours for a week?
A. Start on a
weekend. That will give you 2 good days to get a head start.
Then, seriously consider taking off a personal day or two for
housetraining - it's worth it, believe us. Out of the question?
Try to get home at least twice during the day, and/or have a
friend or Pet sitter drop by a few times. One to two weeks of
serious housetraining now will save you a lot of time and money
later. Soon you'll have a fully housetrained puppy, and you
won't have to worry about him while you're away. (Remember, do
not crate your pup if someone can't let him out frequently
during the first 7-10 days; use the puppy-proofed kitchen
instead, described below, but keep the crate training going when
you are home at night)
Q. I'm away
from home 9 hours a day, I can't take time off or afford a pet
sitter, and none of my friends or family can help me out. Now
what? A. Very frankly, you are asking for trouble in the form of
an unhappy puppy with serious behavioral problems. You should
seriously consider whether a puppy can really fit into your
lifestyle and financial means. If, however this is a very
short-term and temporary situation, and you can vigorously
exercise and socialize your pup DAILY during your off-hours,
here is your answer: Although difficult on you and your puppy,
your mission is not impossible. Bear in mind that housetraining
in this way will take longer, and your puppy will probably have
more accidents. NEVER LEAVE A PUPPY IN A CRATE FOR THE ENTIRE
DAY- he will soil it. Instead, give him a puppy-proofed area
like the linoleum-floor kitchen. Make sure there's nothing he
can reach or get into. Line the floor with newspaper for easy
cleanup, leave the crate door open and line the crate with,
blanket that smells like you, leave the radio on with calm music
or a talk show, and give him plenty of durable chew-toys to
occupy his time. During your off hours and weekends, do crate
train him as directed here. It will take longer, but he still
needs to learn how to hold his bladder and bowel.
Q. Why is it
important to housetrain my yorkie puppy so quickly?
A. Every time
your puppy soils inside your house, he learns "this floor is
just as good a place to go as any," and the chances of him going
there again will increase. The fewer accidents he has now, the
quicker you'll have him housetrained.
Q. What should
I do If my yorkie puppy has an "accident?
supervision is key during his free run time, so watch for his
"signs" the he has to go (sniffing, panting, circling, staring
at you or the door, whining). If you don't catch him "in the
act", just clean it up with a non-ammonia cleanser and chalk it
up to not being there in time. Your pup won't know what he did
wrong! Punishing him is not only a waste of time but confusing
to him and completely ineffective (See Step 3 above.) Punishing
a pup for an accident also teaches him to sneak off from you
when he has to go he might even become too afraid of you to
eliminate in front of you, even when you take him outside!
If you do
happen to catch him "in the act", in a firm voice "OUTSIDE OUTSIDE
OUTSIDE'" and take him outside immediately, praise and treat
him outside as he finishes up. Remember: Punishing him is much
less effective than simply showing him where you want him to go
and properly teaching him how to "hold if'.
Q. What If my
yorkie puppy always soils the crate?
A. Are you sure he wasn't in
there for more than an hour or two? Do everything as instructed
above, but instead of putting him in the crate, keep him on his
leash which is tied to your belt loop (as in Step
3 above). When you have to
leave the house, put him in your puppy proofed kitchen, expect a
puddle or a pile when you return home, and DON'T punish him for
CRATE DO'S AND
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DO purchase a
crate which is only large enough for your pup to stand up, turn
around and lie down in.
your puppy to his crate gradually, with praise, toys and treats
DON'T slam the
crate door and leave the room when first introducing him to his
DO remove the
water bottle at about 8pm each evening. This will help him "get
through the night"
DO put in a
blanket or other bedding.
DON'T put your
puppy into his crate in anger, or as a punishment.
DO give him a
good chew-toy or two when he's in his crate.
DO keep in
mind: .A new puppy needs to relieve himself several times during
the day. In spite of his instinct not to soil his cozy crate, he
will be forced by nature do so if you leave him in it for too
long, until he gradually learns how to "hold it"
DO leave the
crate door open when he's out; he may just go in there on his
DO praise your
puppy when he enters his crate.
your puppy when he leaves his crate.
DO bring him
outside immediately when he leaves his crate.
DON'T leave him
in his crate for longer than he can "hold if' (1 hour max. for
very young pups, 3 hours for 3-4 months old, 4-5 hours for older
pups and dog!
DON'T give him
attention for crying when he goes into his crate. Rather, give
him a chew toy before he starts crying, and never open the crate
door until he has been quiet for a few seconds.
housetraining or crate training duties to children. Rather,
involve them in the process by letting them help you.
your puppy (or adult dog) in a crate all day, if he can hold it
in the crate, he can hold it in the rest of the house.
DO praise and
treat your pup every time he urinates or defecates outside.
ammonia or any cleanser with ammonia in its ingredients to clean
a pet accident (ammonia smells like urine to your pup and he'll
be likely to go there again soon )
socialization to a wide variety of human infants, toddlers,
preteens, adolescents, adults, as well as other dogs will ensure
the development of a calm, confident dog unlikely to jump, bark,
bite, spook or become aggressive around other dogs or people.
How should you properly socialize your puppy? Don't force him
into a situation he's shy about; let him meet people, children,
and other dogs at his own pace. His most impressionable imprint'
period is from 3 weeks to 16 weeks of age; however, the
following socialization exercises must be continued throughout
his adolescent months and adult years as well
After the first
week in his new home, invite friends and relatives, particularly
young children, to your house often. Make sure they are not sick
and don’t feel strange for asking them to wash their hands
before petting. Keep a bowl of cheerios handy so visitors can
treat him when they arrive. Go to malls, schools, shopping
centers, nursing homes, and (after vaccinations) take walks with
him in different neighborhoods. Keep a pocketful treats to give
to adults and children to give to your pup, this will solidify a
positive association with strangers in his mind. A pup well
socialized to 6 year olds is not necessarily well socialized to
2-year olds; make an effort to have him meet a very wide variety
of children and adults.
leave a baby, toddler or young child under the age of 10 alone
with a yorkie puppy or Yorkshire Terrier adult of any age. Your pup needs to meet many
babies and toddlers, so an adult should treat/praise the pup
when holding or standing next to a small child. Children often
tend to get rough and hurt pups (poking eyes, pulling tails,
jumping on, slapping, kicking, stepping on, holding by the
neck). Allowing this is asking for trouble later, so carefully
supervise all of your pup's interactions with your children and
yorkie puppy has had
his vaccines, your pup can and should play with other vaccinated
puppies and friendly adult dogs as frequently as possible. Bring
him to the local park (always on leash) to play with other
friendly dogs. Sign up for a puppy kindergarten class. Bring him
to your local pet store. Dog daycare is also an excellent place
for your puppy to get socialized while you're at work. When he's
playing with pups his own age, he may be shyer or more
aggressive than the others, this is normal. Try not to pick up a
shy pup or scold a boisterous one; he needs to learn his canine
social skills from the other pups and believe us, they'll let
him know what’s OK and what’s not. You do need to exercise good
judgment about what may constitute a dangerous situation and
remove your dog calmly without communicating fear or excitement.
your hellos and goodbye's very low-key and casual. Never make a
fuss when you come home or leave; this will only increase his
anxiety while you're gone. Before you leave the house for a
while, let him outside to pee then completely ignore him for the
last few minutes before you leave. A low-key, very casual “OK,
watch the house, Rover” is enough of a goodbye. When you get
home, take him outside and do not greet him until he has peed.
After he pees, you can give a quick hug hello and start to go
casually about your business (reading mail, etc.) This will help
greatly reduce the chance of developing separation anxiety.
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skip this very important daily puppy training exercise. If you
don't take the opportunity to teach your puppy "bite inhibition"
now, you are asking for trouble at least, and at worst you are
risking injury and/or a lawsuit and/or euthanasia for this dog.
No one expects their cute little pup to grow up into a dog who
(a "soft mouth") is one of the most important lessons your
can learn while his sharp baby teeth are still in. When you
watch a litter of puppies playing, you will see that they spend
much of their time mouthing and biting each other. Because
puppies have very sharp teeth and a weak jaw, the harder bites
or mouthing will hurt their littermates so they yelp and refuse
to play with him for a time. Soon the pup learns that play time
ends when he bites too hard. You and your family should mimic
this puppy play behavior.
Practice several times daily for 3-4 weeks. Allow your pup to
When he exerts
slightly more pressure than usual, say "Ouch'" just loud enough
that he stops in surprise, and immediately stop playing for a
few seconds. Now allow him to mouth again and repeat the "Ouch'"
and stop playing. Repeat these steps several times until he ONLY
mouths softly. If your pup is not responding to the "Ouch",
simply stop it and just stop playing and/or get up and move away
for a minute, then start again. Your pup will quickly learn that
fun ends when he mouths too hard.
(Only after Step 1 has been practiced for at least 2, and
preferably 4 weeks) Now, any and every time his teeth make
contact with human skin, say "OUCH!" and immediately stop
playing. Get up and leave, and/or ignore the pup for a minute or
two. Your pup should begin to believe that humans are very
sensitive and cannot stand the pain of any tooth contact to
their skin. The point of these bite inhibition exercises is to
first teach your pup to have a "soft mouth", and then to teach
him that the instant his teeth touch human skin, play time is
over. Remember, if your pup doesn't respond to the "Ouch" or
seems to get more excited, just skip it and simply stop
interacting in any way for a few minutes.
One of the most
important tasks you have as a new yorkie puppy owner is to spend as
much time as possible encouraging your pup to chew and play with
the correct chew toys. It is necessary for puppies to chew as
long as it’s on something appropriate. If your puppy chews on
your coffee table, it's because:
1) puppies like
to chew on things
2) you didn't
teach him what was appropriate to chew
3) he doesn’t
have anything else to do
4) you gave him
access to the coffee table
scold him for chewing the coffee table unless you catch him "in
the act'. A quick shout is usually enough: say "Puppy, OFF! Find
your chew toy!" and then go and get a chew toy for him and
praise him when he shows even the slightest interest in it. If
you punish your pup after the fact, even one minute after, he
won't learn not to chew that thing, all he will learn is ''when
my owner comes home, I get punished". This will only increase
his anxiety during the day, and he may start to chew even more.
Teach your dog what’s right to chew and what’s wrong by
providing a variety of appropriate chew toys. Keep half of them
away out of sight until he's bored with the ones he has. Then
take up the old toys (for use later) and give him the new toys,
one at a time enthusiastically.
10 good chew
toys cost a lot less than a new coffee table. Appropriate chew
Kong or similar
hard rubber toy with a hollow center. Smear a thin layer of
honey or peanut butter inside, then stuff these with kibble,
treats, other goodies. (Don't worry about your pup getting too
fat, just take the food your use for chew toys out of his daily
ration.) Natural bones with hollowed-out marrow area (stuff with
kibble, peanut butter, etc.). Twisted ropes; Soak in chicken or
beef broth, then dry. Cow hooves and bully sticks are big
favorites too. NOTE: Limit edible chews (bully sticks, hooves,
pig's ears) to 1-2 per week maximum, and supervise when he's
chewing these take the chew away immediately if he tries to
swallow a piece. Don't give him an old shoe or rags they teach
him that shoes and clothes are OK to chew. Praise, praise,
praise each and every time your pup chews something right. Never
take this action for granted. You can also make each toy
particularly attractive by stuffing it with kibble, rubbing some
kind of meat on it, or waggling it temptingly in front of his
nose. When your pup shows any interest in the toy praise him. Do
consider spraying your baseboards, furniture (chair legs, table
legs, etc.) with a bitter-tasting aversive like Bitter Apple or
hot sauce (if your furniture is dark wood), the first time your
pup goes to chew any of these items will surely be his last!
Make sure your home is truly Puppy Proofed, clear all tables and
counters of ALL items your pup might want to chew, for at least
2-3 months and preferably until he's 7-8 months old. If he grows
up believing "There's never anything fun to steal or chew up
there", he'll stop looking (and vice versa If he grows up
believing "There's always something fun to steal or chew up
there", you can bet he'll keep searching the counters and table
tops for fun chewables.) What might your pup want to
chew?-Remote controls, mail, any paperwork, any food or anything
that had contact with food, sewing supplies, yarn, cans,
candles, books, plants, etc. - basically, anything at all.
Occasionally practice "entrapment': Bring your pup to something
you do not want him to chew, and if he sniffs or mouths it,
correct him with a quick "OFF!". Follow immediately by giving
him a good chew toy and praise when he takes it. Until he truly
understands chewing rules, never leave him alone with access to
inappropriate chewables. A Buster Cube or Roll-a-Treat is also a
great toy to occupy his mind while you're away or busy. If your
puppy chews on coveted furniture or even worse walls use clear
under arm deodorant as a deterrent, they hate the taste and
should never visit that area again.
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puppies can be injured or harmed because their owners are not
aware of their habits or how curious they are. Try to imagine
your home through the eyes of your puppy, you may notice many
seemingly harmless household items that can cause unfortunate
Until your yorkie puppy is 8-10 months old, don't leave food, candy,
dirty dinner plates, utensils or glasses on your coffee table,
countertops or other table surfaces. If your pup grows up
believing that there's never anything interesting to eat or lick
on those tables, he won't develop the habit of jumping up on
them, counter-surfing or searching inappropriate places for
Keep papers, magazines, books, knickknacks, and everything else
cleared off your coffee table, counters and other tables while
your pup is being properly Chew Trained. If your pup grows up
believing that there's never anything interesting to chew on
those tables, he won't develop a habit of searching there for
Keep bathroom doors closed to prevent forays into garbage or fun
with toilet paper.
Always keep the toilet lid down if you use toilet bowl cleaners.
They are often strongly alkaline and tempting for a puppy to
Keep medication bottles out of your pup's way. Childproof
containers won’t keep your puppy out.
Make sure kitchen garbage is securely out of puppy access,
locked under the sink or behind a shut closet door. Dispose of
chicken or turkey bones in a puppy-proof manner. Brittle bones
can be life-threatening
Secure electrical cords to baseboards, or make them
inaccessible. Apply a taste deterrent to these cords (such as
hot sauce, deodorant or bitter apple spray available at your
local pet supply store) If your puppy chews on them, he can
suffer electric shock bums and may even die.
Don't leave cigarette butts in ash trays where your puppy can
get to them. If eaten, cigarette butts can lead to nicotine
Never burn candles where they're accessible to your pup. The
flame can attract him.
Keep Christmas and other decorations out of your pup's reach.
Crushed glass ornaments can cause nasty cuts. Tinsel is a
Beware of decks and jumping. Keep cellar doors and upper story
Don't leave needles or pins out where the puppy can get to them;
pups often swallow them!
Be certain anti-freeze is out of reach and ANY drippings are
cleaned up completely. All dogs are
attracted to its scent.
Anti-freeze is HIGHLY TOXIC.
Use pesticides and rodent poisons with great caution. Hanging
strips, fly paper and other exposed toxins must be kept out of
Learn to do the “yorkie shuffle” when walking. Many yorkies get
mistakenly stepped on by their owners, sometimes with very
your yorkie puppy outside.
Keep your yorkie puppy away from toxic foods and plants.
Foods to avoid [Back to Top]
Items to avoid
Reasons to avoid
Can cause intoxication,
Can contain onion powder, which can be toxic
to dogs. (Please see onion below.) Can also
result in nutritional deficiencies, if fed
in large amounts.
Bones from fish, poultry, or other meat
Can cause obstruction or laceration of the
Generally too high in protein and fats.
coffee, tea, and other caffeine
Contain caffeine, theobromine, or
theophylline, which can be toxic and affect
the heart and nervous systems.
Can cause vomiting.
Contain an unknown toxin, which can damage
Unknown compound causes panting, increased
heart rate, elevated temperature, seizures,
Human vitamin supplements containing
Can damage the lining of the digestive
system and be toxic to the other organs
including the liver and kidneys.
Large amounts of liver
toxicity, which affects muscles and bones.
Contain an unknown toxin, which can affect
the digestive and nervous systems and
Can depress the nervous system, cause
vomiting, and changes in the heart rate.
Milk and other dairy products
Some adult dogs and cats do not have
sufficient amounts of the enzyme lactase,
which breaks down the lactose in milk. This
can result in diarrhea. Lactose-free milk
products are available for pets.
spoiled food, garbage
Can contain multiple toxins causing vomiting
and diarrhea and can also affect other
Can contain toxins, which may affect
multiple systems in the body, cause shock,
and result in death.
(raw, cooked, or powder)
Contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can
damage red blood cells and cause
Seeds can cause intestinal obstruction and
Pits from peaches and plums
Can cause obstruction of the digestive
Potato stem, rhubarb, tomato leaves/stems
Contain oxalates, which can affect the
digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.
Contain an enzyme called avidin, which
decreases the absorption of
biotin (a B
This can lead to skin and hair coat
problems. Raw eggs may also contain
Can result in a
thiamine (a B
deficiency leading to loss of appetite,
seizures, and in severe cases, death. More
common if raw fish is fed regularly.
If eaten in large quantities may lead to
Can become trapped in the digestive system;
called a "string foreign body."
Can lead to
dental problems, and possibly
Table scraps (in large amounts)
Table scraps are not nutritionally balanced.
They should never be more than 10% of the
diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat; bones
should not be fed.
Contains nicotine, which affects the
digestive and nervous systems. Can result in
rapid heart beat, collapse, coma, and death.
Can expand and produce gas in the digestive
system, causing pain and possible rupture of
the stomach or intestines.
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tend to explore their world by putting everything in their
mouth. This may help them learn about their environment, but it
can also be harmful. Many plants are dangerous. Some may cause
vomiting or diarrhea while others may cause organ failure and
death. Pet owners should seriously take the responsibility of
keeping pets away from dangerous plants.
have provided a list of some of the more common poisonous
plants. This is not an all-inclusive list. The same plant may
also have different common names depending on the area of the
country in which one resides. Every pet owner should know what
plants are in and around his/her house.
If you think
your pet has chewed on or eaten one of these plants, please
contact your veterinarian, animal emergency clinic, or the
poison control center for advice.
Bird of Paradise
Oak Tree (buds
Peach (wilting leaves and pits)
Potato (all green parts)
Cherry (seeds, wilting
leaves, and pit)
Crown of Thorns
Jack in the
Lily of the Valley
Snow on the Mountain
Star of Bethlehem
Swiss Cheese Plant
Fruit Salad Plant
Tomato Plant (entire
plant except ripe fruit)
Don’t forget there are many bark dust that are toxic, hemlock
and chocolate bark dust should not be in any part of the
yard where the
puppy can freely access.
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